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Regionai
Bordeaux
   

Bordeaux




Jau kelis tūkstančius metų vynas ir Bordo regionas neatsiejami. Ne tik dėl ypač vynuogynams tinkamo klimato, bet ir dėl šio krašto žmonių nuolatinio rūpinimosi vynininkystės ir vyno prekybos tradicijomis.

80 km ilgio ir apie 5 km pločio vynuogynų juosta nusidriekusi šalia upių Garonos ir Dordonės bei visai šalia vandenyno. Šiltosios golfo srovės sukurtas klimatas puikiai tinka vynuogėms: žiemos čia lengvos ir šiltos, o vasaros ypač karštos. Ruduo visada džiugina gražiais ir sausais orais.
Kad Bordo vynas atskleistų savo geriausias savybes, per vegetatyvinį laikotarpį nuo balandžio mėnesio iki rugsėjo mėnesio turi būti:
• šilta - laipsnių suma - apie 3100° C;
• nedrėgna – turi iškristi 250 - 300 mm lietaus;
• saulėta - mažiausiai 1250 valandų tiesioginės saulės šviesos;
• karšta – ne mažiau kaip 15 dienų, kai temperatūra pakyla aukščiau 30° C.
Vyno istorija Bordo regione prasideda ~ 56 m. p. Kr. Tada romėnai, užkariavę kraštą, Burdigalos miestą pavertė prekybos centru. Vietiniams gyventojams romėnų atsivežtas vynas pasirodė per brangus ir šio krašto kilmingieji nutarė steigti savo pačių vynuogynus. Be to, tada dar buvo užkariauta Anglija ir atsivėrė eksporto galimybės. Reikėjo atrasti vynuogių rūšį, kuri tiktų šiam kraštui. Manoma, kad pirmoji vynuogių rūšis „Biturica“ buvo atvežta iš dabartinės Albanijos teritorijos (tuo metu vadintos Dyrradrium).
Aišku, kad tos vynuogės nė iš tolo neprilygsta šiuolaikinėms rūšims, bet manoma, kad tai buvo tolima „Cabernet Sauvignon“ vynuogių giminaitė. Viduramžiais Bordo tapo vyno uostu, nes Viduržemio pakrantės kraštai smarkiai atsiliko, o Akvitanija tapo anglų valda. XIV a. iš šio uosto buvo eksportuota apie 100 000 statinių vyno, t.y., apie 900 000 hektolitrų. Tuo metu vynuogynai aprėpė 20–25 tūkst. ha plotą.

Krašto vynas buvo rausvasis „Clair“ (pranc. „šviesus“), na, o tuometiniai pirkėjai jį vadino „Claret“. Kadangi fermentacijos laikas tuomet būdavo trumpas, vynas įgaudavo tik rausvą spalvą ir nespėdavo tapti sodriai raudonu. Vynas „Claret“ – sumaišytas iš raudonųjų ir baltųjų vynuogių. Tuo metu dar nemokėta brandinti arba sendinti vyno. Jau senu vynu laikydavo 8–10 mėn. vyną ir jis kainuodavo dukart pigiau ne paskutinio derliaus vynai.
Kaip atsirado brangieji „cru“ vynai? XVI a. pradėta auginti naujos rūšies „Le verdot“ vynuogės, iš kurių darydavo raudonąjį vyną, skirtą jūrininkams. Pradėta vynmedžius sodinti tvarkingai, eilėmis, o vynuogynus pradėjo prižiūrėti šeimininkai vyndariai.
XVII a. olandai – didieji Europos pirkliai, pakeitė Bordo vynų prekybos tradiciją. Jie įsigijo mieste krautuvėlių, kur sandėliavo ir patys maišė vyną, siunčiamą į Angliją ir kitas šiaurės šalis. Vėliau olandai tą patį darys su kava ir arbata, bet tada jie pardavinėjo stiprų alų bei džiną. Be to, olandai skatina gamybą ir kitokio vyno – švelnaus baltojo, kurį mėgo flamandai, ir tamsaus raudonojo, kurį vadino juoduoju. Tik dėl olandų iniciatyvos, Portugalijoje, Iberijos pusiasalyje, pradėtas gaminti stiprus ir saldus spirituotas vynas – portas.
Pasikeitus politinei situacijai, vykstant karui tarp Prancūzijos ir Anglijos, prekyba beveik sustojo. Taigi raudonasis vynas pradėjo labai konkuruoti su vietiniu „Claret“ vynu. Dalis Bordo vyndarių ir toliau gamino senąjį „Claret“, kiti sugalvojo, kad reikia pradėti gaminti geresnės kokybės vyną, kurį ir toliau gertų Anglijos aukštuomenė.
Štai tada prasidėjo prekių ženklų era – iki tol „Claret“ buvo pardavinėjamas statinėmis, nenurodant nei vyndario vardo, nei vynuogių rūšies.
Žymus to meto Bordo regiono aktyvistas ir parlamentaras – žmogus, pavarde Pontac, ypač stengėsi išgarsinti savo vynuogyną „Haut – Brion“. Jis net liepė savo sūnui Francois Auguste atidaryti restoraną „New eating house“, kuris tapo labai madingas. Minėtame restorane jis patiekdavo tik savojo vyno „Vin de M de Pontac“. Ten rinkdavosi rafinuoto skonio klientai: rašytojai, filosofai, turtingi pirkliai, kurie tiesiog žavėjosi restorano vynu.
Aišku, kad tuometiniai Bordo vynai, kuriuos ilgai išlaikydavo ąžuolo statinėse, buvo parduodami du tris kartus brangiau nei paprastasis „Claret“. Pontac šeima pradėjo Bordo vyno šlovės kelią. Ir jau apie 1725 metus prasidėjo tikras pamišimas dėl vyno gaminimo. Pradėti masiškai sodinti vynuogynai nuo Madoko regiono iki Fronsako.
XVIII a. prad. pasirodė „New French claret“ – išties kokybiškas raudonasis Medoko regiono vynas. Pradėtos auginti mums pažįstamų rūšių vynuogės – „Cabernet-Sauvignon“, „Petit Verdot“, „Malbec“, truputį vėliau – „Merlot“ bei „Cabernet franc“.
Tuo pačiu metu buvo ypač stengiamasi pagerinti vyno kokybę, todėl buvo patobulintos vynuogynų auginimo ir vyno gaminimo tradicijos. To meto vyno suklestėjimą vienas prancūzų rašytojas pavadino „gero vyno, gerų vynuogynų ir gero vardo trilogija“.
Vynininkystė skatino plėtotis bendravimo kultūrą – ji sukūrė naująją turtingą ir rafinuotą visuomenę, kuri labiau laikėsi angliškų papročių nei savųjų. Tuo metu atsirado populiariosios kavinės, vadinamos „coffee house“. Ši visuomenė jau mokėjo įvertinti ir didžiuosius Bordo vynus.
XVIII a. pab. Anglijoje vyną ne tik gerdavo, bet ir degustuodavo – žiūrėdavo į spalvą, aptarinėjo kvapą, skonį.
Dabar Bordo regione yra daugiau kaip 3000 vynuogynų ūkių, apie 117 tūkst. ha vynuogynų, kontroliuojamų AOC. Vynininkystės srityje dirba maždaug 60 tūkst. žmonių ir pagamina apie 900 mln. butelių vyno per metus:
~ 800 mln. raudonojo vyno,
~ 91 mln. baltojo,
~ 17 mln. saldaus baltojo,
~ 11 mln. rausvojo,
~ 6,2 mln. „Bordo claret“ ir „Crement“ (2001 m. duomenimis).

Bordo krašto vynuogės

Raudonosios
„Merlot“ – tai pati populiariausia raudonųjų vynuogių veislė Bordo regione. Šios rūšies vynuogės užima pusę visų raudonųjų vynuogių vynuogynų plotų. Šioms vynuogėms patinka šiek tiek drėgnesnė vasara. Kadangi rūšis yra ankstyvoji, tai pavasarį gana dažnai nušąla, taip pat ji dažnokai nukenčia žydėjimo laikotarpiu, kai atšiauresni orai. Tada derliaus būna mažiau. „Merlot“ vynuogėse daug cukraus. Iš jų gaminamas „paklusnus“ vynas. Skonio savybės sustiprėja sumaišius jį su „Cabernet“.

„Cabernet Sauvignon“ – viena žymiausių prancūziškų vynuogių rūšių, auginama daugelyje regionų. Iš šios rūšies vynuogių gaminamas aukščiausios rūšies vynas. Bordo regione jos užima apie 25 proc. raudonųjų vynuogių vynuogynų. Medoko apylinkėse – tai pagrindinė vynuogių rūšis. Vynuogės – vėlyvos, todėl ypač aktualu, koks bus ruduo joms bręstant. „Cabernet Sauvignon“ vynai yra sodrios spalvos, sunkūs, tamsūs, stiprūs, charakteringo aromato.

„Cabernet franc“ rūšies vynuogės užima 16 proc. visų Bordo raudonųjų vynuogių vynuogynų plotų. Iš „Cabernet franc“ vynuogių išeina aromatingas, „paklusnus“, ne toks stiprus vynas. Jis palyginti greitai subręsta.

Baltosios
„Le Semillon“ – populiariausios baltosios vynuogės, užimančios apie pusę Bordo baltųjų vynuogių vynuogynų. Vynuogės – saldžios, gero malonaus aromato. Iš jų išeina geras saldus vynas, bet vynuogės netinka aukštos kokybės sausam vynui gaminti.

„Sauvignon“ – viena kilmingiausių rūšių. Užima apie 20 proc. Bordo regiono baltųjų vynuogių vynuogynų. Sausi, stiprūs, labai aromatingi vynai, savo kompleksiškumą atskleidžia bręsdami. Sumaišius su kitomis vynuogių rūšimis, galima gauti gerą saldųjį vyną.

„L‘ugni“ – daugiausiai auginamos vynuogės Prancūzijoje. Bordo ji vadinama „Saint-Emilion des Charentes“ (apie 20 proc. baltųjų Bordo regiono vynuogynų). Vynas lengvas, ne itin aromatingas, rūgštokas. Maišomas su kitų vynuogių vynu, kad išeitų sausas baltasis vynas – malonus, gyvybingas, bet ne ilgaamžis.

Politikas Monteskiu (Montesquieu, 1689–1755) turėjo vynuogyną Bordo regione. Palikęs parlamentą, pradėjo daryti vyną, kurį pardavinėjo Paryžiuje ir Britanijoje. Jį išgarsino posakis: „tenykštis oras, Garonės krantų vynuogės ir gaskonų humoras yra nuostabus priešnuodis prieš melancholiją“.

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